Sunday, June 19, 2011

Entry #5: Khyber Pass Restaurant Review

Khyber Pass

1031 Lake Street
Oak Park, IL

Set in the heart of downtown Oak Park, Khyber Pass is a quaint Indian restaurant that serves as a buffet for lunch (11:30-3:30), dinner later and offers carry out and delivery.

Walking in, I was first greeted by the enticing aroma of cumin and curry, then by the host. The atmosphere is nothing spectacular, a dozen or so tables set for two or four, though a larger dinning room is visible past the bar set to the left of the buffet line.

Speaking of, the buffet consists of one long table. My first experience with Indian food was at Khyber Pass, and it opened a whole new door of flavors to me, leaving me feeling as if “I had had an adventure [and] tasted forbidden fruit…” as Bourdain put his experience tasting oysters for the first time. Every item is clearly labeled in English translation as well as a brief description, making it highly accessible for first timers.

The choices vary slightly day-to-day, but Indian standards such as basmati rice and lamb curry are always available, as well as a small salad bar with four Indian dressings. I found the dressings surprisingly bland and watery, though my girlfriend likes them. The lamb, however, is fantastic, melt-in-your-mouth tender and cooked in a sauce made with onions and cumin as well as bones for a deep, savory flavor. For me, the real showstopper was the chili chicken. At first, I was a little hesitant at the sight of the magma red mustard sauce; I’m no stranger to spicy Indian food, but could this be too much? There was definitely a kick, but I was pleasantly surprised by the creamy complexity of the sauce.

I can’t make many comments about the service since I went for the buffet lunch, though I can say our plates were picked up and our waters refilled in the short time it took to go up for seconds (and thirds).

Included with the buffet is a basket of freshly baked Nann bread (perfect for soaking in leftover sauce) and a sizzling skilled of tandori chicken (which is rather dry and uninspiring) brought hastily to your table. For dessert, they also offer mango ice cream and a really delicious, heat-neutralizing type of Indian rice pudding flavored with rich, silky cream, cinnamon, and carrots.

At $12 a person, Khyber Pass is a great place for those interested in exploring Indian food on a budget. Still, there is no sacrificing in the quality of the food and is a great place for a different kind of casual lunch.


Plate of basmati rice, mixed vegetables, chili chicken, and Indian green beans.

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